The KHO News is published monthly for friends of John and Jamal, covering  news and their life and times in Bali. April 2007 Dawn breaks over the KHO March 20 signalling the end to Nyepi Once again we celebrated Nyepi, Balinese New Year, in Bali. Nyepi is the first day of the Hindu Saka calendar, a 13 month lunar cycle that usually begins in March or April, around the time of the vernal equinox. The Saka calendar originated in South India in  A.D. 78, and and was bought to Indonesia around A.D. 465.  Balinese Calendar Melasti Ritual -  performed at the beach 2-3 days before Nyepi It is 78 years less than the Gregorian calendar, which the Balinese also use for business and government purposes, as well as the Pawukon calendar, a 210-day system introduced from the island of Java in the 14th century, which determines the proper days for religious rituals to take place.  Many westerners in Bali hate Nyepi and go to great lengths to get out of Bali or book themselves into an International compound hotel. Many tourists also avoid the island at this time, especially those interested only in drinking,  1000's walk many kilometres shopping and beaching. They are the losers, because they miss out on one of the most colourful and interesting times in the Balinese year. Although Nyepi is primarily a Hindu holiday, non-Hindu residents

Kerobokan Home Office News - April 2007 Page 2 of Bali must observe the day of silence as well, out of respect for their fellow citizens. Even tourists are not exempt; although free inside their hotels, no one is allowed onto the beaches or streets, and the airport in Bali has the rare distinction of being the only one in the world that closes for a public holiday. The only exceptions is granted are for emergency vehicles carrying those with life-threatening conditions. Kuta Beach Road - deserted Kuta Beach - deserted The streets are totally deserted and in the night time no light is allowed to emanated from any house.  To ensure this is adhered to, the Pecalang, volunteers from the local Banjar's, patrol the streets in the day and night of Nyepi. John with the local Pecalang The Days of Nyepi Melasti The first day of Nyepi is Melasti usually 3-4 days before. The Melasi Ritual is dedicated to Sanghyang Widhi, Vishnu, Devas, Bataras and is performed at the beach to respect them as the owner of The Land and Sea. Thousands of people walk from their local temples to the beach for the ceremony. The streets are a sea of colour, and sound, with the participants beating drums, singing and playing percussive gamalan music. Melasti procession Bhuta Yajn The day before Nyepi the Bhuta Yajna Ritual is performed in order to vanquish the negative elements and create balance with God, Mankind, and Nature. The ceremony culminates with the procession through the villages of the huge papier-mache effigies called Ogoh-Ogoh, sway slowly in the skies of Bali where there is a Madi Gras like festive air as the people prepare to "wake up" the spirits and chase them out of Bali. Finally the procession arrives at the beach where the Ogoh-Ogoh's are burnt with much celebration. Nyepi Day Nyepi day, at the time of a new moon begins officially at 6 am and ends the following dawn at 6 am. During Nyepi Hindu's observe:   o Amati Geni: No fire or light   o Amati Karya: No working   o Amati Lelunganan: No travelling   o Amati Lelanguan: Fasting Ngebak The day after Nyepi the Ngebak Agni/Labuh Brata Ritual is performed for all Hindu's to forgive each other and to welcome the new days to come. Families and neighbours visit each other and wish each other all the best for the forthcoming new year. Kuta Post-Nyepi Market Right across Bali open air markets are held selling everything one can imagine. Time for "Out with the old -in with the new" - a new begining.

Kerobokan Home Office News - April 2007 Page 3 Nyepi at the KHO The Evergreen KHO Entrance We started preparing days before, making sure we had enough supplies to cover the Nyepi period. No good to run out of gas, sambal, toothpicks or sugar in the middle of Nyepi, no shops open and you can't leave the house. It's best to stock up the day before Melasti or even a day earlier to avoid the crowds. During the Melasti parade the streets are impassable. The Black Out It is hard to imagine how dark it gets at Nyepi, there is always a new or no moon, although with a clear  sky there can be starlight, however if overcast, it is just pitch black. We have to be very careful about any lights in the house, with it so black even a 5 watt globe is enough to light up the entire street and a very irate Pecalang will be banging on your door in no time at all.  John made up a set of green LED lamps to light the house during the blackout, a total of 13 in all, each to represent a month of the  Balinese Saka calendar. The lights were placed in a line around the house to provide minimum illumination in order to negotiate ones way around without knocking into furniture. All the windows of the KHO were covered with sizilation sheets to block out any light from escaping. These are stored each year for re-use. With everything prepared we headed off to Warung Sobat to celebrate Nyepi Eve. We always try to get there by 6 pm before the roads become impassable with the Ogoh-Ogoh processions. Ogoh-Ogoh at W. Sobat Step by step hundreds of people gathered in the streets to see the sunset Ogoh-Ogoh procession. Each Banjar works for weeks preparing their own Ogoh-Ogoh which travels through the village and then to the beach to be burnt. Our Local Ogoh-Ogoh This year there were two smaller Ogoh-Ogoh prepared by the local kids - Pak Made's son Dendi and his friends made their own Ogoh-Ogoh. And proudly paraded it in the procession. Ogoh-Ogoh outside W. Sobat Dendi and his friends Dendi & Friends Ogoh-Ogoh

Kerobokan Home Office News - April 2007 Page 4 Before the procession starts there is much singing, shouting, gamalan music and drums all in great fun. Dozens of torch bearing girls lead the procession. After the procession departed we retired to Warung Sobat to have a celebratory dinner with friends Robert, Wiwin, Mary and Dianne, along with Jamal, Kiki. Mary, Pak Made & Dianne at Sobat Nyepi Eve Warung Sobat is one of the few restaurants open on Nyepi Eve, but must close early to allow the staff to return home to their villages. A great time was had by all. We headed home around 11 pm, stopping by our banjar in front of our residential compound to wish them a happy Nyepi. They invited us in and offered us some beers. Party at our Banjar The street lights had already been turned off, step by step the island was blackening, people made sure their lights were off before retiring.  Nyepi Dawn At the KHO we woke as usual around 7 pm to the peaceful quiet of Nyepi day, no traffic, no jets, no dogs barking, even the birds seemed to be observing Nyepi. Soon coffee was made, the cats fed. "No meowing please? It's Nyepi"  then Kiki prepared breakfast, later on followed by a traditional Indonesian lunch. Jamal & Kiki wait for lunch to cool, Indonesians like their food at room temperature As it is impossible to cook at night in the dark,  we pre-cooked dinner in the afternoon, to be microwave heated later for all at the KHO to enjoy  along with a new December 2006 vintage bottle of  fruity AGA Red  angur meja, Hatten Wine. 6:38 PM Sunsets on Nyepi Day At sunset we made sure all the lights were out, Tv and computer off. We settled down in the darkened Tv room for cocktails and John's freshly made chicken paté with cracker biscuits.  Due to our inability to totally black out the lounge/dining area it is impossible to use the dining table, to solve the problem we set up a special table for dinner in one of the blacked out bedrooms.

Kerobokan Home Office News - April 2007 Page 5 Candle lit Nyepi dinner setting We served dinner at 8 pm then after we watched "The Sound of Music", now a KHO Nyepi tradition. Next Day: 5 am John and Jamal had both risen before the crack of Dawn - another Nyepi tradition.  Sitting on the upstairs balcony admiring the great view of the stars, we waited for Dawn. Finally Dawn came and Nyepi was over for another year. Visa Crackdown Denpasar: Foreigners working in Bali without proper immigration documentation will be arrested and deported under an ongoing crackdown, the police said. “Indonesia is a lawful country and therefore we can’t have foreigners coming in here and working while holding only tourist visas,” Bali Police spokesman Antonious Reniban told English language Bali Times. Last week a Canadian man working in the luxury villa sector was deported back to his homeland and barred from entering Indonesia again for at least six months, for failing to have the necessary work permit. "Under Indonesia’s Immigration Law, offenders face either or a combination of deportation, jail and/or fines," Antonious warned. Strong Bali Winds KHO: The first two week in March Bali was battered by strong winds up to 40 km/h from cyclone Jacob and George to the south. Over six people in Bali were killed by falling trees which also bought down  power lines resulting in over 12 KHO power black-outs during the period. Seas ran high, the Gilimanuk and Lombok ferries were cancelled for days on end. The KHO short-wave antenna was damaged, but soon repaired. Trucks Wait for Ferries Cyclone Mythology Jakarta: Indonesia will use the names of characters from Javanese mythology to name cyclones when it begins a new weather warning service Gatotkaca in November. Ten names have been reserved such as "Arimbi," a giantess, "Bima," a master of wisdom, and "Cakil," a demon. KHO: Aussie low cost JetStar is heavily booked to Bali, it is difficult to find a seat in the coming months, especially during the July school holidays Jun 29-Jul 16, during that time  MEL-DPS Jun 23,26,30 & Jul 3 and DPS-MEL Jul 10,14,17, & 21 are already Sold Out, some other dates still available. To celebrate JetStar have jacked up their JetSaver return fare from the normal A$853 to $1,186. If you must travel there are still a few StarClass seats available on the above dates, cost $1,693.40 return. The alternative, Garuda, 3 flights/ week from MEL.

Kerobokan Home Office News - April 2007 Page 6 New Rules Denpasar Airport: From March 31st Bali airport will fall in line with other International airports and introduce the new carry-on liquids and gel restrictions of max. 100 ml/ item which must be stored in a re- sealable 1 litre clear plastic bag. Liquids including duty-free bought air-side will be permitted on aircraft Delayed Kerobokan: Bali's Air Paradise International was due to fly again in March, but  re-launch plans have been put on hold until May because the airline cannot find a Boeing 737-400 to lease. AP plans initially to fly to Asian destinations, but not to Australia, where AP still has significant debits to passengers, travel agents and suppliers. Australian Dollar KHO: There has never been a better time to visit Bali. you now get Rp 7,320 for your Australian dollar. Analysts predict the A$ could climb to Rp 8,275 by the end of the year.*March 29, 2007 Bali Bound Doha: Qatar's Civil Aviation Authority  (CAA) has signed an agreement with Indonesia, the number of passenger flights to Indonesia to  rise to 18 per week, up from 14, while cargo flights will be upped from 7 to 10 per week. Qatar Airways currently operates flights to Jakarta. With flights to Bali commencing by the end of March.  QATAR - A 5 Star Airline Qatar Airlines is a relatively new airline, first flying Jan 1994 and one of the fastest growing. Qatar  is one of four airlines in the world rated as 5 star by Skytrax.  s Qatar's 1st Class  The other 5 star airlines are Malaysian Airlines, Singapore Airlines and Cathay Pacific. Australia's Qantas, rates 4 stars and Indonesia's Garuda 3 stars. Denpasar Facelift Bisnis Bali: The shops in Jalan Gajah Mada in Denpasar city, are scheduled for renovation to preserve their colonial heritage as part of the Denpasar government's plans to convert the area into a pedestrian mall. The plan also calls for pedestrian traffic to be given priority over vehicular traffic, with special facilities to make the area accessible to the handicapped.  Old Denpasar What is that Fish? National Geographic: reports that a five year study by Australia's Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organization (CSIRO) based in Hobart,  Tasmania, seeking new and rare fish species in Indonesia, have discovered an entire range of  unknown species, including at least 20 new species of sharks and rays.  Denpasar Fish Market The method used to discover and catalogue new fish species was by regular visits to local fish markets. Whitefin Smooth Hound Shark

Kerobokan Home Office News - April 2007 Page 7  John & Jamal Go Holiday Hong Kong Bound KHO: April 19 John, Jamal and John's cousin Simon will brave the Indonesian airspace and fly to Jakarta where we will stay with friend Herman and his wife the night. The next day we travel by the 3 hour Parahyangan train to Jamal's hometown to Bandung, where we will stay 3 nights. April 23 we fly Bandung to Kuala Lumpur (KL) where we stay 2 nights. Simon will stay in Malaysia while John and Jamal fly to Macau for 8 nights. Whilst there they will travel to Hong Kong. They return to KL for 3 nights, meeting up with Simon, then return to Bali on May 6. Simon KHO House Cat Suzi returns to Australia 2 days later. Full Report Next Month Nyepi Black KHO: The colour of Nyepi, basic black - the new look at KHO News. First we bought Black 17" LG Flatscreen  monitor replacing the old 15" Phillips model.  We now have a whopping 1024 X 568 screen. Might have to get some new glasses though! We already had a Nyepi black Logitech mouse, so while we were in the - Colour me black Nyepi mood  we bought a Black Logitech keyboard to go with it.  Next on the all black Nyepi spending spree,  we bought a new Canon Black Power Shot Pro S3 digital camera to replace "Old Faithful"  the 4 year old 1.3 megapixal Samsung camera that has done a sterling job over the years. The new camera will arrive by special courier, namely John's cousin Simon, from Australia on April 17.  The camera features a massive 12X zoom lens and has an excellent flash for capturing all those party scenes the KHO news is so famous for. We will use it on our forthcoming trip to Hong Kong, so hang out for some great pictures in next months  edition.  Then to top it off we bought a new Black office chair. The KHO is now geared up to bring you even greater KHO News in the future. After endless consultation with the KHO advertising agency, BBB (Bewitched, Buggered and Bewildered) in their sumptuous suite in St Kilda Rd. Melbourne, we decided none of their ideas would suit our discerning  readers and designed the new format ourselves. We hope you like it and that we have made the KHO News more enjoyable than ever. Speed Humps  in the Night KHO: Our delightful neighbour opposite  put speed humps in our street in the middle of the night without getting the permission of the Banjar or local residents. He claims people pass too fast and his kids always play in the streets. Everyone including the Banjar were up in arms for a minute, until they realized it was a good idea.  Our new speed hump Indo Translations Ever want to translate Bahasa Indonesian to English or vice versa? Alta Vista's Bable Fish is of no use. We have just found a new site that can help. Kataku™ Automatic Translation. The free demo is limited to 300 words at a time. At KHO News we use it often.

Kerobokan Home Office News - April 2007 Page 8 The New Sobat Shop Batu Belig March 9: Pak Made's new Sobat Mini-Market, just to the right of the Sobat Art Shop, is now complete and as is the custom hundred's of people attended a huge Balinese ceremony to bless the shop. As part of the ceremony a rooster, duck and dog were sacrificed then dragged around the yard in a procession with drums and bells warning the evil spirits to stay away allowing the shop to prosper. Pak Made's family worked tirelessly for days before, preparing the decorations and all the necessary paraphernalia for the ceremony. The shop is scheduled to be opened in a few weeks. The Priest's Pavilion The procession The Gamalan Orchestra Decorations More Procession with Pak Made's Son Dendy Offerings The Sacrificed Dog The Ceremony

Kerobokan Home Office News - April 2007 Page 9 Jamal's Project KHO: As we told you last month, Jamal is renovating a house for his European clients. The job takes up so much of his time that he no longer has any time to do the household chores. To solve the  problem we bought Kiki up from Bandung to help Jamal out in the house. In the afternoons Kiki helps Jamal out at the project. As the project is being done by remote control, every night Jamal sends work in progress emails to the clients in Europe. John has been helping out with the design mainly the Balinese front door and one of his famous Roman arches. Balinese front door takes shape, it will be fully surrounded by red brick and Balinese decoration, Wooden frame John designed on  the computer for the Roman arch starts to take shape. An electrician was called in to install a new switch board and meter as well as air-conditioners for the bedrooms and essential ceiling fans throughout the house. The original 3-ply ceilings have been replaced with modern durable non-sagging Gyprok. One bedroom had no window, with some nifty and daring demolition work it is a now a light and airy room. The 3 bathrooms are being completely rebuilt using these nice floor tiles. The entire house has been re-tiled in this interesting buff pattern. Jamal is working very hard co-ordinating the project and haggling all over town for the best prices for fittings. It is amazing what Jamal has achieved on such a small budget compared to what other developers here charge foreigners.

Kerobokan Home Office News - April 2007 Page 10 Leo & Erna Farewell Bali March 11: Leo and Erna departed for Holland, back to work at their seaside resort hotel in Cadzand, South Holland. Pak Made threw a farewell party for them Thu Mar 8. Then on their final night we went went to Erna's new discovery Marina Restaurant opposite "The Legian" hotel. Leo and Erna will return to Bali again in November. Leo & Erna - so sad to go Rocky & Leo making plans,  Jamal and Rocky - Saluté John & KHO House Boy Kiki New Sobat Waiter Komang Bali Surf Champ Peter & Rocky Jamal and Cashier Ketut Final Farewell Party at Marina Restaurant Leo tells about Singapore Girls Seafood Cocktail at Marina

Kerobokan Home Office News - April 2007 Page 11  KHO Mid March: Old hometown friend Lyne dropped in for cocktails and a conducted tour of the KHO. It was great to catch up, we had not seen each other for years. Lyne lives with her husband Blair in the Victorian seaside town of Inverloch, just a few km's from John's hometown of Leongatha.  Inverloch Pier at Sunset Later we adjourned to Warung Sobat for dinner. Lyne said it was nice to be able to come to a real Indonesian Warung instead of Ku De Ta or the Living Room where they usually eat when in Bali. Although Lyne was disappointed when she found Warung Sobat could not make a Piña Colada. Lyne said she always stays in the Palace wing of the Nusa Dua Hotel and loves the butler service. Lyne flew to Bali JetStar, on a $19 launch ticket, she said was lovely. Hometown Gossip Lyne, Jamal and John Aussie Rules in Bali The ANZ Jakarta Bintangs won back-to-back titles at the second ABC Paradise FM Masters Australian  Football Championship in Bali on Saturday March 17,  competing against teams from Bali, Singapore and Australia. The predominantly Australian players and supporters of all teams observed a pre- tournament minute of silence as a mark of respect for the victims of the recent Yogyakarta air disaster. The Bintangs were able to field a strong team in this years tournament, enabling them to defend their title. The Bintangs defeated the Bali Geckos in a hard-fought Final, winning 41 points to 20, after scoring 6 goals and 5 behinds. New Plane Age Limit The Indonesian Government has placed an age limit on newly acquired aircraft at 10 years or 20,000 flights to stimulate domestic operators to give priority to safety, said an official announced earlier today. Domestic airlines will be banned from leasing or buying planes that do not meet this new requirement. There is growing concern about safety after two major disasters in recent times. A Boeing 737-200 operated by Mandala Air crashed into a residential area shortly after taking of from Medan in Sep 2005. killing 150 people. On Jan 1 an Adam Air Boeing 737-400 disappeared over Sulawesi waters with 102 people still missing, then March 7 a Garuda 737-400 crash landed and caught fire at Yogyakarta airport killing 21.

Kerobokan Home Office News - April 2007 Page 12 The 1956 Melbourne Olympics In 1956 I was 12 years old and on Nov 22 of that year the Melbourne Olympic games opened and ran for 16 days until Dec 8. Ross, Jack, John, Nancy & Barry Mum & Dad had applied for tickets and managed to get them for the athletics at the Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG)  for the last Thursday of the games. 1956 Games at the MCG All the previous week we had been watching the Olympics broadcast live on an Astor 21" Tv in the window of "Pip" Joel's radio shop, McCartin St, hometown Leongatha. Soviet runner Vladimir Kuts won the 5000 and 10000 m. Including the opening ceremony and the official opening by HRH Prince Philip on behalf of HRH Queen Elizabeth II. The days dragged on before our trip to Melbourne to attend the games and become a part of history. We set off in dad's trusty Morris Major for Melbourne. In those days the roads were so bad, it was actually quicker to take the 3 hour  train rather than drive the 150 km. The Morris Major The streets of Melbourne, were festively decorated and every store adorned their building to celebrate the International event. Coles Store  in Bourke Street We finally got to the MCG. Living in a small country town with a population of 2,000, I had never  seen so many people. We climbed and climbed the stairs to our standing room only area. Not being very tall I didn't see a thing, just heard the roar of the crowd. "It's moments like these  you don't need Minties" However I do remember while standing there, chewing on a Mintie, one of my last baby teeth fell out and was forever glued inside the gooey white mintie. The Friendly Games Inspired by a letter from Chinese Australian teenager John Wing, the Olympic tradition began where athletes of different nations parade together at the closing ceremony, as a symbol of world unity. Painting in the National Museum of Australia, Canberra depicting John Wing posting his letter to the Olympic Committee.

Kerobokan Home Office News - April 2007 Page 13 Mount Agung Erupts March 16, 1963 KHO: Mount Agung (Gunung Agung) last erupted in 1963-64 one of the world's largest of the 20th century, produced voluminous ashfall and devastating lava flows causing extensive damage and over a 1000 deaths, the lava flows missed, by yards, the Mother Temple of Besakih,  located on the slopes of the mountain. Gunung Agung is still active occasionally belching smoke and ash. Previous recorded eruptions were in 1808,  The Sleeping Giant 1821, 1843.  From a distance, the mountain appears to be perfectly conical, despite the existence of the large crater. Gunung Agung is 3142 m (10,308 ft) high. KHO: The cost of wine in Bali is outrageous by western standards. Many Indonesian's blame the Government tax, while it is high compared to what you are used to at home, the high prices are simply greedy profiteers leaching tourists. Profiteering An example: Well known Australian wine, Jacob's Creek, sells wholesale in Bali for around Rp 120,00 (A$ 17) at Warung Sobat they serve it for Rp 150,000 (A$21) with no added tax. At expensive hotels you can pay Rp 450,00 (A$64)  + 21% tax + 15% service, known in Indonesia as "price ++" Another example is locally grown Hatten Wines, their most popular being  Hatten Rose. Wholesale price Rp 47,000 (A$6.70), Warung Sobat price Rp 55,000 (A$7.85) other places Rp 120,000+ (AU$17) We have heard some of the deluxe hotels sell for as high as Rp 450,000 (A$65) ++. people who would never drink beer, are forced to resort to the amber liquid. The shop price for a large 620 ml bottle of Bintang Pilsner is Rp12,000 (A$1.71), Warung Sobat serve for Rp15,000 (A$2.14) at other places you can pay up to Rp 60,000 (A$9) ++. Balinese Alcohol The Balinese have been making Arak, Tuak and Brem for centuries. Most popular with tourists is Arak: a colourless, sugarless spirit distilled from either Brem or Tuak with 20% to 50% alcohol. A whole bottle only costs about Rp 8,000, and it is usually served "on the rocks" as "Arak Attack" or "Arak Madu". You should try it at least once. There is no hang-over as long as you don't mix your drinks, and many visitors don't order anything else after they have discovered Arak.

Kerobokan Home Office News - April 2007 Page 14 The SS Liberty Glow is a popular Bali diving site, the ship lays on the sea bed just north of Tulamben which is about 15 km from Amed. The ship is often said to be a Liberty ship by diving guides, this is incorrect it has a a stern design identical to a British Standard Ship of W.W.I. design, often referred to as the SS Liberty without the "Glo." History SS Liberty Glo was built  in 1918 and was the first vessel ever constructed and built by the Federal Ship Building Yard, located at Kearny, New Jersey, USA.  Tonnage... 6,211  Length .. 411ft  Width ...... 55ft  Depth... 31.4ft Propulsion system: Single screw, double-reduction-geared General Electric steam turbine, 2-oil fired boilers and a top speed of 11 kts. On Dec 5, 1919, the SS Liberty Glow struck a mine 19 km northwest of Terschelling on the coast of the Netherlands. The explosion broke the hull in two from waterline to waterline at number two cargo hold, the deck plates and bulwarks holding the ship together, despite the heavy sea running, the captain was able to get it ashore with no casualties and save most of the US$2,000,000 cargo. The ship was later rebuilt as the USAT Liberty Glo, It now weighed 6,211 tons, was bound to the Philippines from Australia on January 11, 1942 with a cargo of railway parts and rubber for the war effort when she was torpedoed by a Japanese submarine I-166 about 19 km southwest of Lombok Strait (08°54?S 115°28?E). U.S. destroyer USS Paul Jones (DD-230) and Dutch destroyer HNLMS Van Ghent took the damaged ship in tow attempting to reach Singaraja, the Dutch administrative centre for the Lesser Sunda Islands, on the north coast of Bali. However she was taking too much water and so was beached on the eastern shore of  Bali at Tulamben so that the cargo and fittings could be salvaged. In 1963 the tremors from the eruption of Mount Agung caused the vessel to slip off the beach, she now lies on a sand slope in 30 to 100 feet of water, providing one of the most popular dives off Bali. Diving at SS Liberty Glow Old Diving Map

The KHO is the affectionate name of our house in Bali, this is a non - commercial site, to keep our many friends in touch  with the local scene. Our aim is to help the local people through promoting tourism.  Email us at:jbsymons@indo.net.id Check Past Editions Copyright ©2007 The Kerobokan Home Office - All Rights Reserved