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The KHO News is published monthly
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Email: jbsymons@indo.net.id
June 2006
Bali Saturday May 27, 06:54, we were woken by the KHO Earthquake Detector sounding the alarm. The bell rang for a good 2 minutes. We knew there must be a big earthquake somewhere, but where. The alarm had not rung so long since the Ache quake 2004.
The first reports on local Tv some 20 minutes after our alarm activated, said the earthquake
was at Yogyakarta and there was 1 dead. Shortly afterwards we received an email alert from the US Earthquake Information Centre,
Seismograph of Yogya Quake
from the co-ordinates provided we were able to plot the exact position of the epicentre on our map, 26km SSW (209 degrees) of Yogyakarta and 535 Km from the KHO in Bali.
Death Toll now 5,700+
Last reports indicate that the death toll has now risen to over 5,700, with more than 20,000 injured.
Poverty is the Killer
In the third world, including Indonesia, it is always the poor that suffer death and injury from earthquakes simply because from being poor their homes are sub-standard. It is hoped when Yogyakarta is rebuilt more attention will be paid to the building standards of poor people's housing, pehaps the Government could provide a subsidy or low interest loans and enforce building codes. Wishful thinking of course, they are poor and need a roof over their head, a deadly one is better than nothing ....... KHO
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Hospital beds moved to the open in case of further shocks
At the KHO
When the Earthquake Detector rang at the KHO we could feel nothing, however we could see the antique Javanese lamp above the dining room table was swinging about 3 Cm from side to side.
KHO Dining Room Lamp Swings
The KHO Quake Detector
The KHO Earthquake Detector was designed and built by John in 2004 to wake us in the night if there is an earthquake. Bali is on "The Pacific
Rim of Fire" and earthquakes are frequent. The KHO Quake Detector is basically a builders brass plumbob suspended vertically and solidly mounted to the wall, if the house moves the
plumbob swings and contacts a metal ring, setting off the alarm. After initial contact, a delay circuit keeps the bell ringing for 10 sec's.  Further contact increases alarm time. With the Yogyakarta quake the bell rang for over 2 minutes.
INDONESIA'S WORST RECENT EARTHQUAKES
March 2005 - Magnitude 8.7, 
Nias Island  1,300 dead.
Dec 2004 - Magnitude 9.3, Ache Tsunami kills 200,000+. 
June 2000 - Magnitude 7.9, Bengkulu province, 120+ dead.
Feb 1996 - Magnitude 8.2, Biak, Irian Jaya more than 100 dead.
Dec 1992 - Magnitude 7.8, Flores Island  2,000 + dead.
Mt Merapi on Java, 537 Km from the KHO and just 27 km from Yogyakarta and 25 km from the famed ancient temple of Borobudur has sharply increased activity with the Indonesian Government raising the alert to the highest last week, when the mountain started spewing clouds, ash and rock as far as 4km.
Lava has been flowing freely down the slopes of Mt Merapi. Thousands of people living on the mountain have been evacuated with scientists predicting an imminent eruption. 
At least one village 3 km from the crater has already been covered in a coat of volcanic ash.
Volcanic Ash from Merapi
Vulcanologists posted at Merapi say it is impossible to predict if and when the volcano will erupt.
The mountain is revered by many locals, who believe mystical sprits live in the volcano's crater. Many say they are waiting for specific 
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signs - such as clouds in the shape of a sheep's fleece - to show them an eruption is imminent. 
Merapi, is one of the most feared volcanoes in the so called "Pacific Ring of Fire". The most deadly eruption in living memory was in 1930, when around 1,300 people perished. The last eruption was in 1994 when 60 people were killed.
Satellite Photo of Merapi
Bali's active volcano, Gunung Agung last erupted in 1963, obliterating the city of Amlapura and covering the island with ash.
KHO Bali: Mid May Jamal had the opportunity to view Mt Merapi from the air on his flight home to Bandung and on return a week later. On the flight to Jakarta Jamal positioned himself on the left of the Air Asia aircraft to get the best view, sadly he saw nothing due to thick cloud cover, however on his return on Air Asia flight QZ 7512, Wed May 17,  he had a perfect view of the mountain. It was only that morning Merapi had emitted he largest gas cloud yet. Jamal said it was spectacular to see the huge black cloud coming out of the mountain, he said it was so thick he couldn't see any fire or lava. He was glad the aircraft was no closer.
Jamal chose to fly Air Asia to Jakarta and then take the 3 hour train to Bandung because since the fuel price hike of 127% last October, it is now cheaper  than taking the gruelling 26 hour 900 km bus to Bandung. The cost one way: Fly A$42, Train A$4.50. The 26 hr bus now costs A$53 OW.
Deadly Gas Cloud from Merapi
1000 Years Ago
1200 year old Borobudur
If you believe in the significance of anniversaries, there could still be plenty to fear from Mount Merapi, the volcano on Java which has been spewing out ash and lava for the past three weeks. Travel a short distance west of the mountain, and you come across the magnificent Buddhist monument of Borobudur. It was built during the eighth and ninth centuries, but its breathtaking relief's and stupas were hidden from the rest of the world for eight centuries, after a massive eruption by Merapi covered it with ash. 
1006 Eruption
The year was 1006, the last time the volcano really blew its top. Since then Merapi has been very active, but confined itself to smaller eruptions that only endanger those living on its upper slopes. 
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Borobudur at Sunset
Borobudur, is a the world’s largest Buddhist temple and the greatest ancient monument. It was built  during the reign of the Sailendra Dynasty between 778 & 856, 300 years before Angkor Wat, in Cambodia and 200 years before Notre Dame. It is one of the wonders of the world. An artificial mountain of some 60,000 cubic meters of stone, it was forgotten, buried and protected by ash from successive eruptions of Mt Merapi until its rediscovery in the early 19th century. The temple was constructed with a series of square and circular terraces linked by four main stairways. A must see if your visiting Yogyakarta in Java.
Why Volcanos Explode
Runny Magma
Sticky Magma
Gas bubbles escape and lava flows down side of volcano
 Gas bubbles can't escape and explode magma into red hot ash and rock
BBC World Service London: Through history, floods and earthquakes have resulted in more fatalities, but volcanoes continue to pose a terrifying threat. Scientists have become much better at predicting eruptions and how dangerous a volcano is. It turns out it all depends fundamentally on one thing - how sticky the magma is. As hot magma rises towards the Earth's surface, bubbles of gas begin to appear. If the magma runs like water, then the gas can escape easily and no explosion will take place. Their trademark is gushing 
torrents of red hot lava, flowing down the side of the mountain, like a river of fire. These are the less dangerous of the two types of volcano, because the path of the magma flow can easily be predicted. In contrast, when the magma rising up inside a volcano is sticky like treacle, the gas bubbles 
Volcanic ash can affect world climate for years
cannot escape, pressure builds and eventually the hot magma explodes and fragments. This type of eruption is much less predictable and therefore much more 
dangerous. Explosions of enormous power can result, blasting ash high into the atmosphere and sending clouds of burning gas and rock shooting down the sides of mountains incinerating everything in their path. The sticky, explosive volcanoes are nearly always on land and often near human populations. The runny, less dangerous volcanoes tend to be safely tucked away under the seas. 
Burning ash flows can travel extremely fast
One in 10 people on Earth live within range of an active volcano.  Scientists have got much better at predicting eruptions. The best method at present is to listen to the rumbles coming from inside, as magma forces its way up, thousands of minor earthquakes occur, the more of these, the nearer the eruption. 
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Main street Yogyakarta - Jl Marlioboro
Yogyakarta in central Java, now reeling under the aftermath of the May 27 quake, has a population of around 3 million people. The City is
famous for its Sultanate which dates back to 1755, the current Sultan is Sri Sultan Hamengkubuwono X (right), he has ruled as Governor 
since his father died in 1988. At the centre of the city is his Kraton or Sultan's Palace, open daily 0800. 
Kraton Entrance Yogyakarta
Next time you visit Bali, it's well worth an excursion to Yogyakarta and Borobudur, you can fly from Bali or better still take the train. The Rail bus to Java departs Denpasar Kereta Api office daily at 0500.
KHO News Briefs
New Time Zone?
The Jakarta Post reports that there is a proposal to merge the 3 Indonesian time zones into one aligning Indonesia with the proposed ASEAN Common Time
Business Visa Change
Bali Blog: reports that Arjuna Immigration Consultants have said that Indonesia will no longer issue multiple entry Business visas, unless you can prove you have already have had one before.
Kadek for Governor
The Standard: Kadek Wiratha owner of everything Bounty and leading light of Bali's Chamber of Commerce and Industry, says he will run for Governor of Bali.
John & Jamal to Borneo
John and Jamal will visit Malaysian Borneo at the end of August, basing themselves in the capital Kuching. More details soon.
Dutch VOA
Reported in Bali Update: Dutch Visa on Arrival (VOA) is now available in Bali as the Government makes good its promise to extend VOA Facility to Dutch Travellers. 
JAL Resume Bali Flights
Jakarta Post: JAL Japanese Airlines will resume daily flights to Bali from July, in response to demand.
KHO Visitors
Rolf & Monica from Germany drop in for drinks at the KHO
Immigration Clean-up
John stays in Bali on a Social Budaya Visa, (right) it is obtained outside
Indonesian. The Visa is valid for two months, however it can be extended monthly up to a total of 6 months. Recently Jamal went to get an extension and was surprised at the changes, no longer did they ask for "extras" and he only paid the prescribed fee of A$30 and instead of the renewal taking more than a week it was ready in 3 days.
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New Museum Guide
Reported by TEMPO Interactive: 
A book reviewing museums in Bali was launched at Gunarsa Classical Painting Museum, last weekend. 
The book, which is published by Bali Museums Associations (Himusba)  and entitled Treasure Islands, is expected to be
a tourism guide and scientific teaching material. In Bali, there are 27 museums including science museums and art museums indicates the high appreciation of history of the Balinese and their creative development. The science museums include ones in Gilimanuk, the Subak museum in Tabanan and Kirtya House in Singaraja where scripts written on Palmyra leaves are on display. Himusba has co-operated with Richard Mann from Gateway Books International, a leading British book publisher, in the publishing of this book. In the first stage, 5,000 copies of the book will be published in English and sold for Rp300,000 (A$45) each.
New KHO Mouse
Last week the  generic Mouse on the KHO computer 
died. Off to the Bali Computer Centre
in the old Rimo Department store Denpasar, for a new one, we decided to give the Generic $2.99 mouse a miss and buy a reliable, we hope, Logitech mouse, a bargain at A$11.94.  i.e. If it's a real one.
Next problem is what do you do with a dead mouse? - give it to the cats of course. They played with it for hours - but they failed to eat it.
Cats play with the dead Mouse
Mid May, Ines, well known Bali identity and KHO News personality, flew to Singapore where she met up with friend Andi, later she flew to London. She sent us this report.
London: It seems I have totally switched from hectic to laid back mode. It was chaotic until I got to the airport, I was stuffing things in my suitcase while the taximan was waiting. I didn't even have time to kiss Didi (the cat) good bye.  Then I figured I'm on my own time now, so I decided I wasn't going to be rushed anymore. Had a lovely time in Singapore with Andi.  Did some last minute shopping in Singapore and thought I was in shopping heaven until I hit London.  SA (Singapore Airlines) is a top airline, even in cattle class it was comfortable and the food was excellent & the booze free flowing. 
They also have individual screens at your seat and on demand movies.  In London it did not take me long to fall in with the rhythm, yesterday I walked over to Buckingham Palace to see the changing of the guard, and then 
Ines Shares a Joke
to St. James park, Westminster Abbey and parliament square. We've already combed the antique shops in Portobello road and gone window shopping at Pimlico road.  But I am aghast at the prices.  London has become very expensive. it costs £3 (A$7.40)  for a cappuccino.  A glass of wine is £5 (A$12.30).  And that is outside this exclusive area. The weather is nice and the gardens are in full bloom.  St. James park was awesome with azaleas and the spring flowers. All of a sudden I'm waking up to the fact that I live a very spartan life. Say hello to everyone, Love, Ines.
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Radiator Repair
Indonesian Style
The KHO Suzuki Jeep
During the month KHO Jeep, temp. gauge was reading high. Pak Made from Sobat restaurant suggested we take it to Muji Radiator Service in Denpasar. When we arrived there were radiators everywhere, mostly truck and bus radiators in various stages of repair. 
I thought they were just going to clean the radiator with a high pressure hose or 
something similar. Before I could blink they had ripped the radiator out of the jeep and were attacking it with a blow torch. Next thing I knew they had opened the top and bottom of the radiator. I didn't know the covers were soldered on - hence the blow torch. 
The top and bottom casings were cleaned and polished exposing the brass metal. 
The central part of the radiator with its hundreds of tiny tubes were now exposed. Two boys spent half an hour cleaning each hole with special metal abrasive rods, removing any blockages and corrosion in the pipes. 
It was time to solder the radiator back together, back to the blow torch, a liberal coating of hydro- chloric acid and a ton of solder was applied to reseal the casings. 
I couldn't help worrying that surely this will leak. To my surprise they used a leak test I have only  seen before in an aircraft workshop. 
An air compressor was attached and the radiator dunked in water,
a couple of leaks were obvious by air bubbling through the water. Back to the blow torch and try again, this time fine. The whole operation took 1½ hours and cost Rp 40,000 (A$6) The Jeep is now running at the correct temperature.
Letters
Thank you to all who sent emails congratulating us on last months edition of the KHO News from Bali. 
We have reprinted a few below.
From Holland
Hello John and Jamal,
We thank you very much for the newsletter we enjoy it. We did stay for 7 weeks at Balisani December January and hope to come again at the end of the year. Lots of love Cees and Stieneke (may be I will be in your newsletter one day)
Dear Stieneke, you now have your wish. here you are with Pak Made in Warung Sobat in Bali. Bali Sani Hotel is 150 mtrs from W. Sobat.
Stieneke and Pak Made
From Sydney
Hi John and Jamal, I am just adding my voice to say how much I continue to enjoy the KHO news, however I am saddened by the decline in Australians visiting. I am interested in the two warungs you mentioned in the latest issue i.e. warung italy and warung satya.  Can you tell me where they both are please?  Kevin.
Warung Satya is 70 mtrs east of W. Sobat - W.Italy, Jl Kunti, Seminyak.
From Perth
Hey John, Thanks for your KHO news again, but I have a confession to make. Would you believe that I hit your page 4,400 time my self last month? OK, would you believe 3,000 times? Seriously, congratulations. We look forward to reading it every month.
Derek & Jenny, 
From California
Dear John.  Enjoyed  KHO April News. I had a long flight.  It was worth a stop off in Hong Kong. I had not seen their new airport.  I prefer Changi.  Weather here in northern California is beautiful and so nice to be able to drink wine at affordable prices. Allen
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Anti-Porn Bill
The famed Antonio Blanco Gallery in Ubud, may have to close if a small group of Muslim parties pushing for passage of an anti-pornography law get their way. The bill, now being reviewed by a special parliamentary committee, is stirring resentment across the nation's far flung and ethnically diverse provinces, where many feel they are misrepresented 
by a handful of orthodox lawmakers in the capital. It would ban poetry, drawing, writing, photos or film that reveal or describe anything from partially bare breasts and buttocks, to shoulders and thighs. 
Violators could face a maximum prison term of up to 15 years, including a 5 year term for kissing on the lips in public and fines of up to one billion rupiah. (A$150,000). 
"Controlling people's attitudes is difficult and won't work," said Gede Nurjaya, the head of Bali's tourist board. He and other regional authorities are pushing for changes in the bill's language to exclude local traditions. "The government of Bali and the Balinese community have strictly rejected these proposed laws," Ubud would be robbed of it's free expression, artistic nudity by famed Ubud artist Antonio Blanco 1926-1999, would not be able to be displayed, most likely forcing the gallery to close.
Nude Painting at Blanco Gallery
One of the most contested parts wants to prohibit "erotic dancing or erotic shaking", but Bali is
particularly fearful of the kissing ban which could scare away badly needed foreign tourists. Canadian tourist Sheila 42, said she was surprised by the proposed changes and she would think twice before returning if they are adopted. "If the law goes into effect, I will be afraid to visit Bali because I won't be allowed to swim, wearing my designer bikini," she said.
Antonio Blanco
John with Antonio Blanco 1998
Antonio Blanco was born 1925 in the Philippines and came to Bali in 1952. He loved to paint women in exotic poses. Blanco built a permanent studio and gallery above the Campuan river where he lived with his wife and four children. He died in Dec 1999.  Son Mario also a painter carries on the tradition. The Antonio Blanco Gallery open 9am - 5pm daily, a must see when visiting Ubud, Bali.
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From etravelblackboard: In an unprecedented move, Garuda Indonesia has launched free kids airfares to Bali, historically Australia’s favourite holiday destination. The offer of a free airfare is valid for travel from June 15 to July 31, including the school holiday period, and is open to each child, aged between 2 and 12 years, who is travelling with an 
adult in either Business or Economy class. Only government taxes and airline surcharges will apply. 
The Garuda promotion is for flights from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Adelaide. Tickets must be booked and paid for by June 28, 2006. “This initiative is further 
evidence of Garuda Indonesia’s confidence in the continuing recovery of Bali tourism and an opportunity to say thank you to those families who consistently support their favourite holiday destination,” said Mr. Yitnopawiro, Regional Manager for Garuda Indonesia South West Pacific. 
The Balinese love of children is renowned and, in addition to a myriad of family-friendly resort options, there is a huge range of family activities from which to choose. Bali offers everything from water theme parks to go-cart racing, elephant safaris to paintball and snorkeling to banana boat rides. Garuda Indonesia’s wholesaler, Garuda Orient Holidays, has released some amazing free offers to complement the free airfare initiative. These include free accommodation, free breakfasts, free transfers and
selected free tours, and are available to kids travelling from all ports in Australia. Details can be found in the “Free Kids Airfare to Bali” flyer which is issued in conjunction with Garuda Indonesia’s  comprehensive “Bali on ANY budget”, available from any good travel agent or on-line.
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Luke in Bali
During the month Jamal flew home to Bandung to spend a week with his family,  (see article above - P3)
while Jamal was away, John's friend Luke came over to Bali to help out in the house and keep John company. Any of you who have travelled to Gili Trawangan with
us will remember Luke who works in Rudy's Pub. Luke was the first employee when Rudy's opened in 1987, at that time Luke was 14, now Luke is 32. The week before we went down to Padangbai to pick Luke up from the Lombok ferry.
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Just 15 Km from Padangbai, our favourite week end hide away, is Tenganan, protected for centuries from the outside world by its surrounding walls. The village has about 400 residents who fiercely guard the customs which have
remained unchanged since the 11th century.   The village is famous for its hand woven, elaborately designed ikat weave cloth called "gringsing" which take months, 
even years to complete. Ikat is a style of weaving which uses a tie dye process on either the warp or weft before the threads are woven to create a pattern or design.
The double ikat method a style in which is when both the warp and the weft are tie dyed before weaving, a difficult and time consuming process, to create patterns. The colours are limited to red and blue black and the dyes are derived from plants. Rusni, 41, is one of the few weavers at the village. Every day after school, her 12 year old daughter helps Rusni tie the threads, a process that can take up to a year before the dyeing can begin. Rusni weaves on a simple handloom and it takes almost five years for her to complete a four metre long cloth. Textile experts have classified gringsing as a rare cloth because it`s much more difficult to weave than the single ikat, a more common method in Indonesia. The gringsing has been used in rituals for centuries not only in Tenganan but also across Bali. "What is so unique about this double weave it is that it is only found here in Tenganan" said Runs. Boutiques owners and 
antique dealers often come to the village to buy the cloth. The Tengananese cling to tradition and customs, which among others, forbid villagers from marrying outsiders and villagers risk being expelled from the community if they breach the customs. A village council dictates day to day activity. The village, whose houses face Gunning Ageing, Bali's most sacred volcano has its own laws which regulate land ownership, the use of water, public facilities and natural resources. In Tanzanian the villagers are not allowed to pick fruit and crops before they are ripe and cars and motorcycles are even forbidden from entering the village.
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May: Ankara reports that State electricity firm PT Perusahaan Listrik Negro (PLAN) said the integrated Java Bali system is facing a power deficit of 300 megawatts due to a shortage of gas supply from BP West Java to Plan's Jakarta Muara Karang  power plant. 
 Muara Karang Power Plant
PLAN spokesman Mulyo Adji said there has been a leakage in BP's gas pipeline since Friday night. BP are investigating the damage at its pipeline. Repair work is initially predicted to take two weeks, due to the leakage, gas supply to the Muara Karang plant has dropped to 140 man standard cubic feet per
day, from its normal volume of 260 Scf. The gas shortage will cut power output from Muara Karang by 500-600 MW from its normal combined capacity of 1,550 MW. Muara Karang's output mostly supplies the Jakarta area, but PLN is planning to implement rotational cuts if consumption runs at more normal levels to rationalize meagre gas resources. To cover the deficit, PLN has requested other plants to optimize their output and will also request extra fuel supply from state oil and gas firm PT Pertamina of 1,600 kiloliters per day so that one of Muara Karang's units at Priok, in North Jakarta can switch from gas to oil fuel. As a result, the net deficit would be around 300 MW. If Java-Bali consumers, now numbering 20,000,000 can just turn two lamps off from 5 pm to 10 pm, we can save 500 MW, meaning that PLN would not need to cut power supply during the peak hours,"
Bali Power Costs
The KHO uses an average of 600 Kw hours of electricity per month, charged @ AUD 6c per Kw + other charges and fee's A$13.80 Average bill A$60 per month.
To cover the constant black-outs in Bali, the KHO have an emergency Battery Auxiliary Power System.
When there is mains power the current first goes goes through the voltage stabilizer which maintains exactly 220 volts then into the
Inverter/Charger where the current charges the 30 A/H car battery. The inverter has 2 outputs; A=Emergency Power which supplies the emergency lighting placed throughout the house and    B=Continuous Power which supplies the Tv, Satellite receiver, DVD and Tape/Amplifier and the Computer and Shortwave receiver in the office. In a power failure they all continue to operate.
In each room of the house there is a 5 watt PLC florescent lamp  to provide emergency illumination.
The power source is a standard 30 Amp/hour car battery. It can run the all the emergency lamps for up to 5 hours.
Selectively using lamps as needed the battery will supply power for up to 15 hours. The entertainment unit will run for 1½ hours. This system works extremely well as the average power outage in Bali is usually from 1-30 minutes.
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In 1964 John at age 22 was an employee at Television Station 
HSV-7 Melbourne. He had not yet travelled overseas, that had to
wait until 1969, but what a better way to sample European life than travel on an Italian liner from Melbourne to Sydney.  The Guglielmo Marconi had sailed from Genoa Italy and first docked in Perth, then on to Melbourne where the majority disembarked and then on to Sydney before making the return voyage to Italy. On the MEL- SYD - MEL leg the ship was quite empty 
and the owners Lloyd Triestino were offering a special 5 night package. Sail from Melbourne to Sydney, live on board for 3 days in Sydney's circular key, then return to Melbourne. The fare was £8.16.00 ($17.60), about 3 days salary in those days. It included all meals, while docked in Sydney.
I travelled with channel 7 co-worker and friend, Ian Wilson. .
John & Ian at a Reunion 2003
We departed on the Monday evening, spent the next day at sea and arrived in Sydney on Wednesday morning.
Station Pier Melbourne
When we departed Melbourne all our friends came down to see us off and gave us a streamer farewel.
Sailing to Sydney
During the day at sea we were all ordered to the lifeboat deck for ship emergency drill.  Much to our 
surprise we knew the person conducting the drill, he was none other than English comedian Jeffrey Lenner who had hosted a series of shows at our Tv
Jeffrey Lenner
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station, , including a national show in 1962 called "Top of the Town" regulars included Buster Fiddes, Vicki Hammond and Len Lowe. The lavish (for the time) variety show featured both overseas and local talent and was produced by Norm Spencer.  By 1964 Jeffrey had fallen on hard times and was no longer in demand, as he would say, he was working his passage back to the UK. We never heard of him again.
On Board
The 36 hour trip to Sydney was so exciting for us. When we first went on board we checked in at the pursers office, they gave us a room and and an Indian room boy showed us to our room. We had never seen an Indian before, he spoke very good English, better than ours we thought.
A Luxury Cabin on the Marconi
Our Nice Steerage Class Cabin
We surveyed the ship from one end to the other. We were surprised to find the ship even had a 2 story cinema. First class upstairs and 2nd class in the stalls.
The Marconi Cinema
They were running an Italian movie, we couldn't understand it at all, we had never seen a foreign movie before - it seemed to be a romance with a guy trying to seduce a girl while she was feeding chickens, the scene went on for hours. She eventually gave him some eggs, he left and so did we. 
On leaving we wandered past the projection booth, the projectionist invited us in. It was a very professional setup with 2 x 35mm projectors. I was intrigued to see a small black and white television camera pointing at the screen. 
Cinema First Class Balcony
The projectionist explained that the State rooms had a television set and the guests could watch the movie in the privacy of their cabin. Extremely modern for 1964, considering our Tv station only possessed 5 "Marconi" Tv camera's
Soon it was lunch time and we headed for the second class dining room. For us it was hard to believe 
The Marconi Dining Room
it was only 2nd class, so glamorous. We had already been introduced to Italian food in Melbourne and were regular customers at one of Melbourne's first Italian restaurants, Leo's in St Kilda which opened in 1956 and is still open today.
It was at Leo's I had my first ever Spaghetti Bolognaise, I was horrified, first time I was introduced to Parmesan cheese. I bravely ate it and still laugh about that today.
Meanwhile: Lunch on the Marconi was a delight.  Each table had a huge basket of freshly baked bread and a complimentary carafe of red and white wine, we drank ours. As there were not many passengers and each table had wine, the waiter kindly swapped our empty carafe with a full one from another table.  I had never tasted real Italian wine before. It probably wasn't the best quality, however we wouldn't have known at that time, Australia was yet to have it's wine revolution.
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First Class Dining Room
After lunch a string quartet gave a classical recital, it went very well with yet another carafe of red wine. After the recital it was afternoon tea time, we were served Italian coffee and sticky cakes. By this time we were starting to feel a little sea sick, no doubt from all the red wine and decided to go for a nap. Soon it was cocktail time.
One of the many bars
Lounge Bar
followed by a 3 course Italian dinner and more free red wine. Everyone on the ship was in party mood because it really was the last night of their voyage, most were migrants about to start a new life in Australia, we seemed to be the only ones not getting off in Sydney.
Marconi Party Time
The Band Played until late
Next morning we were up early to watch the ship come through the heads at Sydney, then down through the harbour to dock at Circular Quay. Sydney was a small town then, but it looked magnificent with Australia's tallest building, the 25 story AMP building towering over circular Quay. 
The Marconi docking in Sydney
Construction had begun on the Sydney opera house which was not to be opened until 9 years later in Oct 1973 by Queen Elizabeth II.
Sydney Opera House C1964
Our Floating City Hotel
The Marconi at Circular Quay
The next 2 days we explored central Sydney, walking every where. We felt we were like foreign tourists on a cruise stopping over in Sydney. We returned to the ship for meals, which were far more appetizing than the Aussie fare 
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Marconi at full speed out of Sydney
available on shore and after all it was free and there was always that free red wine. We virtually had the ship to ourselves. Many of the crew took shore leave. We had to tell the chef if we would be in for meals and he would prepare something special just for us. 
Departing Sydney
On the Saturday night it was time to depart from Sydney. All afternoon passengers had been coming aboard for the trip to Europe, supplies were loaded and people said their farewells.
We felt sad that we would be getting off in Melbourne - but dreamed that one day we would travel to Europe.
When we sailed, it was already dark, the Marconi backed out of Circular Quay and under Sydney Harbour Bridge. From deck of the Marconi we felt like we could touch
the Harbour Bridge, it looked enormous. The ship was not completely full, more passengers would be picked up in Melbourne and Perth. After sailing through the Sydney heads it was time for more dinner and more Italian red wine.
Sunday
The next morning at breakfast the ships priest came over to our table and asked me could I assist him serve Mass at 11am in the Chapel. 
He must have thought I looked like an alter boy. Now looking at this photo of myself taken around that time,  I can sort of understand his thinking. 
I said although I had been to mass a few times at a Catholic Church, I knew nothing about serving mass. Being an Italian ship I guess the priest thought everyone was Catholic. He insisted, "I have no one else, it will be easy, I'll whisper what to do, and you just follow." I thought, oh well, why not, it will be something to write about when I'm over 60.
I arrived before 11, and the priest gave me a white cassock to wear. Fortunately not too many people turned up for Mass that morning and I went through the actions at the priests prompts. Fortunately my back was to the congregation so they could not see.  I didn't know any of the responses, which he filled in anyway in a lower voice. When it was over he thanked me very much, he said I was very good and he blessed me. 
Arriving in Melbourne
Approaching Station Pier
Very early Monday morning we were up to watch our arrival in Melbourne - our first impression was how flat and boring Melbourne was after Sydney. Off course in those days Melbourne had no high rise buildings. We left the ship and spent a long time in customs, who were hell bent on searching all of our baggage, a foreboding of many searches to be suffered during travels in the years to come.
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 Kerobokan Home Office News
Page 16 
In 1960 Lloyd Triestino ordered two new ‘Galileo class liners’ to be built by Cant Riuniti dell Adriatico at Monefalcone. The two new innovative ships were built to replace the three handsome ‘Australia class liners’, the 13,226 RGT Australia, Neptunia and Oceania. Lloyd Triestino had been operating services to Australia for ten years and the two new ships would make their mark in shipping history as they were revolutionary ships for their day. 
Galileo in Fremantle W.A.
The Galileo was launched on 2 July 1961, departing on its maiden voyage from Genoa to Australia on 22 April 1963, arriving in Sydney 
on the 15 May. Marconi was launched on 24 September 1961 and departed on its maiden voyage on 18 November 1963, arriving in Sydney 11 December. Both ships with their increased speed, reduced a month long voyage to just twenty three days. These two streamlined liners introduced new standards of luxury to immigrant travel. Both ships sailed successfully for over seven years, however the world oil crisis of the 70’s had an impact on all shipping. Soon after the Boeing 747 Jumbo Jet arrived putting an end to regular passenger liners for ever.
Galileo seen in Pago Pago
With lowering passenger numbers and rising costs, both ships encountered a variety of problems. Galileo was due to go on a cruise in December 1973, but was cancelled and the ship lay idle in Sydney until 3 January 1974. Then on 13 January 1975, Galileo struck a reef 
Christmas cruise.  off the coast of West Africa and had to be diverted to Monrovia. With substantial damage to the hull plating, Galileo returned to Genoa where she was dry-docked for repairs. She returned to service in March. After fourteen years of fine service, both Italian maritime favourites left Australian and New Zealand shores forever. In 1976, Guglielmo Marconi was transferred to the  Naples-Brazil-River Plate service of Italia Line. In 1979, both ships were transferred to Italia Crociere as full-time cruise ships. This was not a success and both ships were laid up, later to be sold to Chandris Line and Costa Crociere respectively. On 21st May 1999, Sun Vista, ex-Galileo Galilei, sank off the Malaysian coast following an engine room fire. There were no fatalities.
Ex-Galileo Galilei on fire
The Costa Riviera ex-Marconi
The Marconi had a successful life after her Liner days. In 1983, she was sold to Costa Lines, and was given a massive rebuild & refit. She was renamed Costa Riviera, and became a very successful cruise ship for Costa Line until 2000. It was decided that she had seen better days and was sold for scrap.
Specifications
Galileo – Marconi
Builders: Cant Riuniti dell Adriatico
Launched: 1961
Maiden Voyage: Galileo April 1963
               Marconi November 1963
Tonnage: 27,906 – 27,905 GRT
Dimensions: 702 ft x 94 ft
Draught: 28 ft
Engines: Steam, D.R. geared turbines, twin screw.
Service Speed: 24 knots,Max 27.4
Passengers: 100 first class + 200 interchangeable – 1,400 Tourist
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 Kerobokan Home Office News
Page 17 
Book Review
In 1945, there were 2428 POWs in the camp at Sandakan on the west coast of Sabah: from January of that year, 1047 were sent across 
country through savage, steep jungle terrain on three death marches. The local villagers, thinking the route would be used to move Japanese troops, had cut the track through the most inhospitable terrain they knew. 
The prisoners, who had built a military airstrip at Sandakan, were ordered to march to Jesselton (now Kota Kinabalu) on the east coast for new forced labour projects. They never made it. Those who survived the marches were halted at the halfway point, at Ranau, because Jesselton had come under Allied attack. All but six would perish, either on the marches or once they
reached Ranau. Lynette Ramsay Silver (right), a writer who has researched the death marches for 14 years and has written a book
called - "A Conspiracy of Silence", said the rescue never came because of a major intelligence failure. 
The official version, she said, was a plan to rescue the prisoners; Operation Kingfisher was shelved because General MacArthur,
Supreme Allied Commander of the south-west Pacific during World War II, refused to supply the necessary aircraft. However, the records show the Allies received a signal from inside Borneo from a Special Operations team sent on April 2, 1945, that said: "We have reliable information that all the prisoners have been removed. 
Aerial View of the Sandakan P.O.W. Camp
We expect confirmation within a fortnight." On April 16: "We now confirm no prisoners in Sandakan. Recommend bombing." At the time, 900 prisoners remained at the camp
none survived. "The government didn't know it was wrong until death march escapee Braithwaite (right) was picked up on June 12, 1945. 
That was the first indication there were still prisoners in Sandakan," Silver said. Perhaps, because so few survived, Sandakan is not a name that rides high in Australian war history. Sitting recently at a simple memorial in Ranau at the end of the march, Bombadier Kenneth Tunney said he had heard many stories of Australian heroism as he trained to be a soldier. "I heard stories of Kokoda, Gallipoli, El Alamein, Vietnam, Somalia but not Sandakan. I didn't have a concept of the scale of it, because there were so few survivors," he said. The Australian War Memorial did not present its first Sandakan exhibition until 1995 and the public response was so overwhelming it was later incorporated into the permanent exhibit.
The burnt remains of the Sandakan P.O.W. Camp 1946
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