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October 2006
September 1: After spending two relaxing days in Kuala Lumpur John and Jamal took the Air Asia RM9 (A$3.33) bus from KL Central 
railway station to Air Asia's newly completed Low Cost Carrier Terminal (LCC-T) at KL International Airport. The new 
Dining at the Coliseum KL on the eve of departure
terminal has both domestic and international arrival and departure facilities and is 18 Km by road from the main terminal. KL airport is 75 Km from central Kuala Lumpur.
The Air Asia bus takes 1:15 from KL to the  LCCT.
Jamal - a last smoke before departure
Special Holiday Edition
This month we have held our news and regular features to present our trip to Sarawak in Malaysian Borneo. 
We hope you enjoy.
KLIA Airport
We presume Air Asia built the Low Cost terminal at KL International Airport to save rentals at the huge KL International terminal. The irony is that KL International must be one of the most under-utilized airport terminals in the world. It is mainly used by Malaysian Airlines who recently drastically cut domestic flights and fired 3,000 staff.
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Sep 30: Big surprise for Jamal, his youngest brother Dadan arrived from Bandung, Java. The 18 strong Birthday Eve Dinner was held at Warung Sobat, we welcomed the big 40 in at midnight. 
Reunion with brother Dadan
The next day off to Padangbai, where Jamal celebrated his birthday at Warung Murah, with 15 guests, then on to party at Kinky bar.
Anni, Dadan & Jamal
Jamal with the girls
John, Andi, Rocky & Meisy
Cake Arrives
There Goes 40 Years
Cake Cutting
"Happy Birthday"
and Speech
Life begins at 40
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Padangbai Party
At Kinky Bar
Lina & Jamal at Cocktail Hour
Dede and Jamal
Les, Putu with Jamal
Dadan and Hendrik
Win and Anez
Dadan and John
Les, Ines and Andi
Dede and Hendrik
Ketut & Ayu Wed
A few editions ago we announced the civil wedding of Ketut and Ayu from Warung Sobat, last week in Sept. they had their Balinese wedding ceremony in Buahan.
Dede, Ayu, Jamal & Ketut
Ketut and Ayu
John misses out again
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Denny and Bradley at Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe
Denny & Bradley well known KHO readers and friends of John's in Melbourne, have just returned from a four week safari through South Africa and Zimbabwe. 
Livingston Monument
They visited the Victoria Falls on the Zimbabwe - Zambia Border, they said the Victoria Falls were extremely dry this year, 
Victoria Falls Rainbows
They said, however, the bonus was that you could actually see into and right to the bottom of the actual falls, never possible before. At Livingston Island there were lots of beautiful rainbows.
Ostrich Egg Standing
Apparently a craze in South Africa. Amazingly you can actually stand on the Eggs and they are so strong they don't break.
Denny Ostrich Egg Standing
Denny says "I had heard that you could stand on them and it is true. The hen had moved off to feed 
while we were there, so we could stand on them. The two on the side the hen had tossed aside as they were infertile."
Durban Sandcastles
At the Durban beach front locals make sandcastles, then collect a donation - Denny said "better than mugging people for money"
David Livingstone 1813 – 1873
was a Scottish medical missionary and explorer of the Victorian era, now best remembered because of his
meeting with Henry Morton Stanley which gave rise to the popular quotation, "Dr. Livingstone, I presume?" He discovered Mosi-oa-Tunya falls and re-named them Victoria Falls after his Queen.  Wikipedia
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"AH-OOOOH-GAH!"
The Trusty KHO Jeep
Jamal planned to give John a Klaxon horn for his birthday to install in the KHO Jeep. However he looked far and wide and couldn't find. Last week he got lucky and found a Chinese made replica.
The KHO Klaxon Horn
We installed the horn in the Jeep's engine bay connected by a fuzed wire to the Jeeps battery via a separate red horn button.
Red Horn Activation Button
Engine Bay Installation
Now John is hooning around Bali like a delinquent teenager of 62 tooting his horn at all and sundry.
History
Klaxons were first fitted to automobiles and bicycles in 1908. Electric klaxons were the first electrical devices to be fitted to private automobiles. They were originally powered by 6-volt dry 
cells and then from 1911 by rechargeable batteries. The klaxon is also famous for its use as a submarine dive alarm. The Klaxon's characteristic "AH-OOOOH-GAH!" sound is produced by a spring-steel diaphragm with a rivet in the centre that is repeatedly struck by the teeth of a rotating cog-wheel. The diaphragm is attached to a horn acting as an acoustic transformer.
In the first klaxons, the wheel was driven either by hand or by an electric motor. 
The electric version has been credited to inventor Miller Reese Hutchison, an associate of Thomas Edison.
To Shriek!
The Lovell-McConnell Manufacturing Co. of Newark, New Jersey bought the rights to the device in 1908. F. W. Lovell, the founder, coined the name klaxon from the Greek verb klaz?, "to shriek".
The English company Klaxon Signals Ltd. has been based in Oldham, England for the last 80 years, with premises also in Birmingham. The French Klaxon company was acquired by the Italian Fiamm Group in the 1990s.
The Klaxon March
"The Klaxon": March of the Automobiles was composed by Henry Fillmore in 1929 for the Cincinnati Automobile Show, and was originally performed on twelve automobile horns.
Original Klaxon Horn
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Air Asia Airport SkyBus
LCC Terminal
The new KL Low Cost Carrier Terminal is exactly as it says, a big low cost air conditioned tin shed. Everything is so compact, the walk from the Air Asia bus to Check-In is only meters. Just like the good old days. There is a McDonalds, Asian Food Cafe and Book shop. In Domestic Departures a mini market, in International departures a Duty Free shop. There is no ATM in International Arrivals, but one near Domestic Arrivals. 
Air Asia LCCT Entrance
(1) Check-in
(2) Domestic Departures
(3) Domestic Arrivals
(4) Baggage Claim
(5) International departures
(6) Immigration
(7) Shops
(8) Immigration & Customs
(9) Baggage Claim
(10) Covered Exterior
(11) Air Asia Sky Bus
The Spacious Air Asia Terminal
Sarawak Here We Come
Our AA Airbus 320
As part of Air Asia's low cost model, they only allow 20 minutes turnaround of the aircraft between flights. The cabin staff clean the aircraft and the toilets during decent. Front and rear stairs are used rather than aerobridges to expedite the loading and unloading of passengers. There is no reserved seating, however people with children and over 55's load first. Geriatric John joins that cue, being fit he can run to the aircraft and secure a couple of good seats, Jamal can take his time boarding and not queue. 
On board Air Asia Airbus 320
Our flight to Kuching took 1:45 for the 1,046Km flight and arrived on time. Coffee, Tea (A$2) and snacks are available for sale on board from the "Snack Attack" menu. No Alcoholic  beverages are served.
Relaxing enroute to Kuching
New Aircraft
Air Asia started flying in 2002 with a fleet of second hand Boeing 737 aircraft. These are progressively being replaced with the wider and more comfortable Airbus 320 which seats up to 180 passengers.
The Air Asia Airbus features a touch screen for the cabin attendants to control the lighting, play music and even check the water levels in the drinking water and toilet waste tanks. This technology was designed for the new Airbus 380 super jumbo.
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Airbus 320 cabin touch screen
Airbus A320 Economics
The Airbus A320 was built to compete with the Boeing 737 and offers greater cost advantage. The B737 has been a huge success over the last 36 years however it is a very old design and was derived from the Boeing 707. The original 737 was fitted with fuel guzzling turbo-jets. Later when the fuel efficient high bypass engine was available they found the ground clearance was not sufficient and the new engines had to be extensively modified with a deformed nacelle
 and a smaller fan to fit under the low 737 wing. This substantially reduced performance.
The Airbus A320 was designed for the later "big fan" engines allowing full use of their performance, claiming a fuel saving over the 737 of over US$200,000 per year.
Airbus 320 Big Fan
Airbus 320 Specs.
PAX 180 Engine CFM56
Speed 811Km/h Range 4,843Km
Altitude 39,000ft W Span 34.1m
Length 36.6m Tail Hgt 11.7m
F Crew 2 C Crew 4
New Visa
On arrival in Kuching you have to present yourself at Immigration and obtain a new visa for Sarawak, even though we arrived on a domestic flight, the visa is valid for 2 months. We were told this is done to control the migration of people from Malaysia looking for work. On departure we also had to present at immigration and have our passport stamped, however 
on entering Malaysia there were no checks and our existing Malaysian 3 month visa was still valid.
Sarawak Visa Stamp
We were surprised to find Kuching had a very modern airport, complete with aerobridges even.
Modern Kuching Terminal
We were soon out of immigration, collected our baggage and took the fixed price RM15 (A$5.55) 7km taxi into Kuching town.
The White Raja's 
200 years ago Sarawak was a part of the Sultanate of Brunei, but as a reward for his help in putting down a rebellion, it was ceded to an English adventurer, James 
Brooke, who ruled Sarawak as his personal kingdom, he became known as the White Raja and he ruled from 1841 until  1868. 
James never married and Charles Brooke, James nephew became the second Raja and ruled from 1868 until his death in 1917. The third 
and last Rajah, Sir Charles Vyner Brooke ruled from 1917 until the Japanese invaded in 1941, he fled to Sydney. After the 
war he ceded Sarawak to the British who gave Sarawak independence in 1963, later it became part of the Malaysian Federation.
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Our first impression coming in from the airport was that Kuching (Cat-Malay Language) was a normal cement box asian city, sprawling with shops, factories and dwellings - then as we came closer to centre of town we were surprised to see landscaped public gardens and parks, how English is this? we thought. Soon we arrived at our "River View Hotel", which no longer has a river view since sadly
Kuching Waterfront
a multi-storey carpark was built between it and the river. 
River View Hotel
Best travellers hotels in Malaysia are usually Chinese owned, 
although they are spartan, the rooms are always large and very clean, they usually have air-conditioning, phone, a tv and often a bath with hot water. Av. cost A$20. After checking-in we headed for the river and lunch. The streets were packed with people, we had arrived on Malaysian Independence Day and everyone was out to celebrate.
Jamal watches speed-boats on the Sarawak river, Kuching
Riverfront Shops
FOOD
Kuching has an abundance of restaurants,  local hawker food, Malay, Chinese and Dyak. The riverfront features rows of Cafe's at night serving everything from Nasi Goring to Hamburgers.
Also along the riverfront, our favourite Khatulistiwa Cafe as well as the pricier James Brooke Cafe. 
The Khatulistiwa Cafe
Dining at the Khatulistiwa Cafe
Both the Holiday Inn and the Hilton have excellent restaurant. The Hilton Steak House is ideal for a surprisingly reasonable splurge, but watch the drink prices.
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The Astana - This impressive, squat palace was built in 1870 by Rajah Charles Brooke as a gift to his wife Ranee Margaret. It is now the official residence of the governor of Sarawak and used for state functions.
The Kuching General Post Office - was built during the reign of Rajah Charles Vyner, with its Greek-style portico and Corinthian columns. 
The Court House
Court House and Obelisk
The Court House is another legacy of the Brooke Empire and serves as a Secretariat. The imposing façade has intricate patterns of native designs of the various tribes on the doors and window, grills and ceiling. Completed in 1874, it was the seat of government during the reign of the white Rajahs. A clock was added in 1883, and in front the obelisk memorial to Rajah Charles Brooke commissioned in 1924. Today it houses the High Court of East Malaysia.
The Pavilion
 
Built in 1907 and housed various government offices. It is now used as a textile museum.
Observation Tower
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The Sarawak Museum
With an external structure inspired by a house in Normandy, the Sarawak Museum is Borneo's main repository of ethnological and archaeological artefacts featuring a permanent exhibition of native arts and crafts. Many of the exhibits are from the collection of Alfred Russell Wallace, a naturalist who, with Charles Darwin, was a co-founder of the theory of evolution. Wallace spent a lot of time in Borneo and was a friend of the Brookes'. 
The Sarawak Museum
An annex to the Museum has ancient Chinese porcelain 
recovered from shipwrecked junks off Sarawak's coast, and galleries devoted to the way of life of the various Dyak tribes. 
Fort Margherita
Built 1879, the fort was named after Margherita, wife of Raja II, Charles Brooke. It served as a defence for the town from attacks by pirates.   The fort is now a police museum.
The Square Tower
Originally built as a detention centre and has a real dungeon for prisoners.  During the Brooke era, however, it also doubled as a fortress and a dance hall.
The Round House
A later fort built by the Brooke Administration in 1931.
River at Night
The Sarawak River running through Kuching is a fantastic backdrop to the amazing little English city in the middle of the jungle.
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Modern Kuching with the Holiday Inn on the left
Crown Plaza and the Kuching Hilton on the right.
Chinese Kuching
Kuek Seng Ong Temple was built in 1895 in honour of the deity, Kuek Seng Ong. Henghua fishermen offer their prayers here for a good catch and safe return from the sea. Legend has it that Kuek, a native of Hokkien Province, became a god over 1,000 years ago and prayers to him never go unanswered. Thirty percent of the population of Kuching are Chinese.
The majority ethnic group is the Dyaks or as known locally Iban people. They have hundreds of different tribes and languages.
Iban busking on the Waterfront
Kuching Water Taxi's
The Tambang a traditional double-oared boat connects the south side of the river to the north.
The oarsman stands in the front of the boat to row the boat to the jetty. These days the crossing is assisted by a 4-stroke motor mounted in the back floor. The boatman starts the motor with a rope on pulleys to the front of the boat attached to the pull-starter. The engine is stopped by the boatman shorting 2 wires connected to the motors ignition.
India Street
The third largest group in Kuching are the Indians. They congregate around India 
Street, packed with shops and stalls selling everything from plastic junk to antiques and beautiful silks.
India Street
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Sarawak State Mosque
The multi-million dollar mosque beside the Sarawak River was completed in 1968. It stands on the site of the original Masjid Besar, a wooden construction completed in 1952. With the increase in the Muslim population, migrating from Malaysia, the need for a bigger mosque was pressing. The state mosque is a magnificent structure topped by golden domes. The Muslim Malays are the smallest population group in Kuching and Sarawak. Christianity is the largest religion followed by the Dyak's traditional religion and then Islam.
The Cat Museum
As we said before the name Kuching means Cat in the Malay language, so how could the resist building a monument to the feline.
The tongue-in-cheek Kuching Cat Museum is a must see for cat lovers, Jamal being one of the above he just couldn't resist.
Jamal in his element
Mangy Stuffed Cats
The museum displays anything to do with cats. One enlightening display shows how to use a cat to make rain. You put the cat in a 
bucket of water and half drown it, resuscitate it, then half drown it again, this is guaranteed to bring rain in no time at all or if not you have a perfect cat - a dead one.
Jamal with a very big cat
The free Museums Sponsor
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More Cats
Many spots around the city feature cat statues, some are quite grotesque. Just in case you forgot Kuching means cat in Malay
Chinatown Street
This street was totally destroyed in the great fire of Kuching in 1884.
The Holiday Inn Hotel
We spent a total of 4 nights in Kuching and totally enjoyed it. It is certainly an unexpected oasis deep in the jungles of Borneo.
Trekking to Kapit
After the first night in Kuching we headed out to the Kuching Bus Station and took a 7 hour bus to Sibu only 380 Km from Kuching.
The bus featured the most decorative curtains.
The journey to Sibu was not exactly the highlight of the trip, 7 hours of winding roads and endless palm oil plantations. The highlight was the 17 minute lunch stop in the middle of nowhere.
The No-where Lunch Stop
Endless Palm Plantations
Finally we arrived in Sibu. We knew it wouldn't be exciting and it sure wasn't, just an overnight stop on the way to Kapit.
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However we did have a nice hotel, the city had some pleasant areas and the food was better than average. We spent 2 nights in Sibu, first on the way to Kapit and again in transit on our return.
The very modern Sibu Market
Jamal - Town Centre
The next leg, was the one we were looking forward to, 150 Km by fast river boat to Kapit.
High Speed to Kapit
The public High speed boats from Sibu to Kapit are the peoples only way to get to Kapit, there is no road, the jungle is far too dense.
The boats are very long and fully enclosed almost like an aircraft. The 150 Km trip only takes 2.5 hours, an average speed of 60 Km/hr.
Economy Class
First Class
Fortunately our Lonely Planet guide book warned us that they run the air-conditioning at sub zero in the fully enclosed boat cabin. We took the precaution of wearing a T-shirt under our shirt and had a jumper ready. The book was right and we still froze.
High Speed Boats
The main industry up river is logging. Huge barges loaded with logs are towed down river by powerful tug boats.
Logging Barge
Some logs fall of the barges and the river has many logs floating down stream. We wondered how the high speed boats would navigate through them. Magically it appeared the huge bow wash would move the logs, but every few minutes we would hit a log. The noise was deafening, was like being in a 44 gallon drum with someone smashing the side with a baseball bat. Initially it was a bit frightening, however we soon came to the conclusion that the boats steel hull was strong enough to survive any size log.
The Batang Rejang River
Lonely Outpost
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River Village
Kapit Supply Ship
Logging Camp
Arriving in Kapit
Kapit town is the capital of Kapit District which comprises of 15,595.6 square kilometres and a population, as of 60,200 (2002,). 
Rajah Charles Brooke founded Fort Kapit in 1880 as a garrison town, primarily to prevent the Iban from migrating up-river and attacking Orang Ulu settlements. 
Fort Sylvia
The fort was later renamed Fort Sylvia, after the wife of Rajah Vyner Brooke, but the town retained the name of Kapit. 
Initially settled by Hokkien Chinese in 1880, additional Ka Chinese immigrants arrived in 1906, and Fuzhou Chinese in 1919. The Chinese grew rubber and pepper and traded treated rubber sheet and forest products. In 1941, at the time of the Japanese occupation, Kapit only had two rows of 37 shophouses. 
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The town was completely destroyed by allied bombing during W.W.II. Kapit today remains as a busy but compact with a few streets running parallel to the river. It is only accessible by boat (more than 2 hours from Sibu by express boat) or light aircraft.
Many of the old buildings  in the town are made from wood.
We found a nice hotel right on the waterfront called the Ark Hill Inn.
The view from out hotel was great we could be totally entertained by just watching all the shipping pass by with their various cargos of timber, coal, sand, cars and trucks.
Daily, Jamal kept John's Mum, home in Australia up with our travel progress by SMS.
The town has a town square which is packed on weekends with the town overflowing from people up stream who come down to sell their produce and get provisions.
The bustling town Market
The Fruit and Vegetable Market
The main pier is very high as when the river floods it can reach to the top of the pier.
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The town only had local restaurants, the majority Chinese, most were very humdrum with the exception of Hua Hua Cafe. 
Their Chinese food was excellent, my favourite was the Deer in Oyster sauce. Their Fried Rice was genuinely Chinese and not oily.
We made friends with 2 Indonesian girls working at the Hua Hua Cafe, they were from Pontianak in Indonesian Borneo.
Because of the large Chinese population Christian churches predominate in Kapit, we didn't see or hear a Mosque there at all.
 
The rather impressive new and very modern Catholic church.
The old and quite traditional Methodist church. The Methodist Church run a Guest House, often frequented by back packers. It is very good value at only A$3 for a dormitory room.
The view from our window on our last sunset in Kapit.
We very much enjoyed our time in Kapit, it was more like an American Wild West town rather than the sleepy town it would first appear. The town has more hotels than I have ever seen in a small town, this is because workers from the forest come down on their days off to relax and let off some steam.
Returning
Departing Kapit
We took the fast boat back to Sibu
where we overnighted before taking the sea going boat, the Express Bahagia-8, (behagia = happy)  back to Kuching. The first half the journey was inland through a myriad of large rivers, often we stopped at villages and towns along the way, finally we heading out to sea, then up the Sarawak river to Kuching.
Express Bahagia-8
Departing Sibu
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 Bahagia-8 2nd class cabin
The boat has a first class and two second class cabins all air/con, plus an outside deck at the back, much approved by the smokers.
Heading Downriver
A Riverside Town
The trip down river was interesting and relaxing, not a minute went by with out something new appearing.
New Cars Transported up-river
One of many Saw Mills
Jamal on the Outer Deck
A lonely Out-station
Finally Out to Sea
Entering the Sarawak River
Finale
We spent the next 3 days in Kuching before returning to Kuala Lumpur. We enjoyed Kuching, so relaxing, so friendly and such good food and entertainment. We vowed one day we will return.
In KL we accidentally ran into fellow Bali ex-pats Clive and Wendy who were on holiday. We had a pleasant dinner with them at Bukit Bintang, in KL's Champs d'Élisé.
Sunset as we wing our way with AirAsia back home to Bali.
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